buckingham



ooooooooo i UNI/TED STATES "PATENT- OFFICE.

THOMAS H. BUCKINGHAM, OF SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA, ASSIGNOR TO BUCKINGHAM 85 IIECHT, OF SAME PLACE.

BOOT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 280,443, dated July 3, 1883.

v Application filed November 4, 1882. (No model.)

To all 'whom it may concern,.-

Be it known that l, THoMAs H. BUCKING- HAM, of the city and county of San Francisco, State of California, have invented an Improved Boot; and I hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and eXact description thereof.

My invention relates to certain new and useful improvements in boots, .and it consists in the fashioning of certain parts and their com- Io bination to forln the upper and leg of a boot,

as will hereinafter fully appear.

The object of my invention is economyin the cutting and simplicity in construction, with strength and comfort.

Referring to the accompanying drawings, Figure l shows the pattern of the main portion of the upper and leg of the boot. Fig. 2 shows the pattern of the side gore, one of which is let into the main piece on each side. Fig. 3 shows the pattern of the combined counter-protector and side lining. Fig. 4L shows the pattern ofthe back-seam stay, being similar to the one shown in my former patent, N o. 2.`6`3,885, August 29, 1882. Fig. 5 shows the appearance of the boot upper and leg when the parts arevput together.

The upper and leg of the boot are mainly formed from a large piece, A, cut after the pattern of Fig. 1, having two side slits, n., with rounded bottoms, to prevent the leather from tearing when it is being crimped. The operation of crimping fashions this pattern A into proper shape, having the foot and leg at right angles. Vhen crimped, the sides of the slits a. are separated considerably, and a gore, B, of the shape shown in Fig. 2, is inserted in each opening, whereby the appearance shown in Fig. 5 is given to the upper portion of theleg. The insertion of these gores permits the cutting of the main piece A with economy and advantage, and at the same time gives to the leg a finished appearance.

In Fig. 3 is seen the pattern of apiece which is a combined counter-protector and side lining, C. Two of these are cut, one foreach side. They have a cut-away portion, m, at their wide or rear ends. of the upper, and their upper edges stitched thereto, as shown by the seam ein Fig. 5. The

5.0 edges of the main piece A are brought together in the back, and a seam, c, is run down, taking in the rear edges of the pieces C down They are placed on the insideto the cut-away portions m, where it leaves them and continues to thebottom. This leaves a portion of the rear edges of the pieces C loose in order to insert an ordinary counterstiffener between them and the main piece A. The back-seam stay F is then stitched on over seam c, and its seams take in the whole rear edges of the pieces C, thus securing all together and the stiffener in its place.

In this boot there is no side seam, as is usual, either on the leg or at the line where the counter joins the main piece. This latter seam is well known to be the first to tear, and its avoidance is a benefit, both because of this and because of comfort. Vhen it is present, thel side lining-and the counter-protector are always in separate pieces, .the ends of which are joined in the said seam; but in my boot I am enabled to make these from one piece, and thus have a smooth surface on the inside. By their construction I am enabled to introduce the stiifener, and then to catch them up in the seam of the back stay, E. If found desirable, I need make the main pattern A with but one slit a, and introduce but one side gore, B.

It is obvious that I could cut the side slits, a, of the main piece A with suitably curved edges, and conform the edges of the gores B to them. This is a matter of taste, and does not affect my invention.

I am aware of elastic side gores in shoes and bootees; but these are formed in a different manner, are differently located, and serve a different p'urpose from my gores, which are not elastic, are high up 011 the leg, and only serve the purpose of permitting economy in the fashioning of the leg, and in the avoidance of seams at points of wear, and discomfort.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

A boot,the upper and leg of which consist of a main portion, A, fashioned or eut as shown, having side slits, a, and the side gores, B, let into the side slits, a, substantially as herein described.

In witness whereof I hereunto set my hand.

THOS. H. BUCKINGHAM.

Vitnesses:

E. II. THARP,

F. D. CLAYTON.

IOO 

